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Saler jacket

Zoom on: the Saler jacket pattern

by Pauline Alice 25 May, 2016

written by Pauline Alice

You might know it by now but jackets and coats are my favourite garments to sew. I love the tailoring aspect of sewing, the structure of these pieces, the time and patient hand-sewing involved in such projects.
With the Saler jacket, I wanted to offer a classic pattern with tailored details and timeless style. The pattern includes illustrated instructions and all the pattern pieces you’ll need: interfacing and lining have their own pieces. It’s a time consuming pattern and more recommended for an advanced seamstress but it’s also the perfect challenge for an intermediate one, thanks to the detailled instructions.

The Saler jacket features shoulder princess seams at the front and back for an easy fit, two pieces sleeves with a buttoned vent, double welt pockets with flap, it is partially interfaced following the modern method of fusing interfacing and entirely lined by machine (bagging technic).

The most important steps for making the Saler jacket is to take to amount of time necessary to make a muslin and mark your fabric.

Marking the fabric can be tedious and we often want to start sewing as soon as possible but believe me, when you’re done marking all your jacket pieces, putting them together is going to be so much easier.

As for recommended fabric, you can choose between a classic wool or tweed, linen or crepe for a summery version, gabardine or denim for a more casual look… Just make sure your fabric has a little bit of drape, it’s going to be easier (I don’t recommend using gabardine if you’re not already accustomed with jacket-making as the stiffness of the fabric is going to make it more difficult – I had to set my sleeves 3 times to get an ok sleeve cap, and it’s still not perfect while the sleeves of the jackets I made in light tweed went in beautifully). Another important detail is the choice of interfacing: I like to use weft interfacing as when fused, it follows nicely the drape of the fabric.

Gabardine “driftwood” and “blanc”: les Trouvailles d’Amandine
Wool: France Duval Stalla
I’m finishing the “zoom on” series with this Jacket, I hope you’ll like it!

25 May, 2016 4 comments

Saler jacket, Reina shirt and Safor skirt patterns testers

Blog Pauline alice patterns Reina Safor Saler Sewing ideas and inspiration Sewing projects

Reina, Safor and Saler: the testers versions

by Pauline Alice 24 May, 2016

written by Pauline Alice

I thought I would make a break from showing you the patterns in details and show you the patterns testers versions of the Reina shirt, Safor skirt and Saler jacket (the details of the Saler jacket pattern are coming tomorrow).
Most of you like to see as many versions of a pattern before committing to buying it, I totally relate as I do the same. It’s always nice to see different versions of the same pattern as fabrics, colours and styling are very personal choices and maybe the samples I made don’t speak to you as much as one of the testers versions.

It’s always a great pleasure for me to see the garments the testers made. Most of the time, when I send them the pattern to test, they only have the technical drawing or the pattern illustration to guide them (my muslins are made in pretty awful fabrics and the samples for the pictures are not ready as there’s a big chance the pattern is going to be changed after the testers’ feedback). I like to see the fabrics they chose, the vision they have of the pattern before being influenced by others pictures. Their trust is something that really enlights me, I am so thankful for they help and their amazing work as testers. So let’s see what beautiful garments they have made:

REINA SHIRT

Let’s begin with the Reina shirt pattern. There’s been so minor changes on the pattern since the testers gave me their feedback and the most important is that the plunging neckline has been raised about an inch or so as it was…too plunging!

1. Sonia
2. Manju
3. Charo
4. Claire
5. Anne

SAFOR SKIRT

This is the pattern that has most changed since testing. The general feedback was that the asymetrical panels were too deep and that the skirt could be a little bit more fitted around the hips. As you might have seen for the sample pictures, I addressed the issues and the asymetry is now less pronounced.

1. Céline
2. Marie
3. Marie (she made it for her 13 years old daughter, that’s why it’s so long).
4. Isa

SALER JACKET

Apart from lowering the pockets, this pattern hasn’t changed. As you can see, eventhough it’s a very classic design, fabric choice is going to set it apart.

1. Marie
2. Lise
3. Céline
4. Beth
5. Annie
6. Céline
I hope the testers’ versions have inspired you. I’m looking forward to see your own Reina, Safor and Saler versions!

24 May, 2016 0 comments

Blog Pauline alice patterns Reina Safor Saler

New patterns: Reina shirt, Safor skirt and Saler jacket!

by Pauline Alice 20 May, 2016

written by Pauline Alice

The day I release new patterns is always stressful, and today is no exception! During the last months, I’ve been working very hard on these 3 new patterns and I’m so happy (and a little bit anxious) to introduce you to the Reina shirt, the Safor skirt and the Saler jacket!

These 3 patterns have been designed as a mini collection: each piece can be worn individualy or as a complete outfit. Depending on the version and the fabric you choose, they can all be dressed-up or casual. I wanted classic pieces but with a twist, easy to wear on a daily basis or for a special occasion and that can be mixed with lots of other garments.

The Reina shirt was inspired by Victorian blouses, with loops fastenings and high cuffs. Wide, with a longer back and deep V-neckline, it can be worn with a skirt or pants quite easily.
There are two options: View A has a tie collar and long sleeves whereas View B is perfect for summer days with short sleeves, mandarin collar and small pockets.

A faux-wrap skirt, the Safor skirt is very modern yet has a classic feel. With the yoke following the body curves and two lengths option, it’s versatile, elegant and confortable.

Finally, the Saler jacket will be perfect all year-round and it just goes with everything. Classic tailored shape with princess seams, flap pockets and two pieces sleeves with button vent, it’s the perfect challenge for seamstresses.

You can find the Reina shirt, the Safor skirt and the Saler jacket in the shop!

I hope you’ll like these new patterns and I’ll be coming back during the week end and next week with details on each pattern.

Fabric credits: all fabrics are from Les Trouvailles d’Amandine.

20 May, 2016 15 comments