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linen

Combi-short Dominique: ready for summer!

by Pauline Alice 30 June, 2015

written by Pauline Alice

I’ve not been idle since the release of the new patterns, the Xerea dress and Sorell trousers. I’m already designing the next patterns and I’ve also taken some time to sew summer graments.

When Géraldine of République du Chiffon released her new summer collection, I fell in love with the Dominique jumper and the Juliette shirt, so I ordered them on the very first day.
I started with the Dominique jumper and made just one change: instead of the long legs, I cut the pattern pieces as a short.
I knew I would wear it more easily if it was short, as we have a very very warm summer here.

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It was my first garment from RDC patterns and I chose the size according to the measurements, size 36. I could have used the smaller one as it’s a little bit too big (I have to wear it with a belt and it makes some pleats around the waist, not very nice). So for the next one, I’ll go with size 34 and reduce the bodice length just a tiny bit as I’m way shorter than the height its designed for.

Other than than, I’m happy with my Dominique! The light blue linen I bought is perfect for summer, I managed to hammer the snap-on buttons quite well and I love the short version: I find it playful and elegant at the same time.Very soon I’ll show you the Juliette shirt I made…

30 June, 2015 17 comments

Blog Extras Patrons pauline alice Sorell Tutoriels et techniques variations

Sorell trousers variation: a pair of short

by Pauline Alice 22 June, 2015

written by Pauline Alice

When designing the Sorell trousers, I thought they would make a great pair of shorts as well. This is such an easy variation to make: just cut the legs above the knee ast desired length.

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I like my shorts short so I cut mine about 8 cm below the crotch seam, including the 4 cm hem. I also added about 2 cm to the side seam at the hem to get them a little bit wider around the thighs.

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I used linen for this version, it wrinkles a lot but is very comfortable to wear when it’s so hot like now. I really like the safari feel they have.

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If you want to see a denim version, head over to Anne‘s blog. Inspired by her version, I didn’t add the back pockets either 😉

22 June, 2015 8 comments

Blog Carme Extras Patrons pauline alice Tutoriels et techniques variations

Carme Blouse: Safari Dress Variation

by Pauline Alice 22 June, 2014

written by Pauline Alice

I’ve always wanted to make a saharienne inspired dress out of the Carme blouse pattern and I woke on Saturday morning with an urge to sew it Now! So I drank my morning tea and headed to the sewing room and I got out for lunch with this Safari Carme Dress.

As you can see, it’s still missing some closure on the front placket, I’m planning to make some kind of lace-up closure with eyelets like the Yves Saint Laurent original saharienne. But I was missing a hammer so I’ll finish it later…I used a natural linen, it’s so comfortable for the summer… I think it would also look great in light cotton or chambray. The fabric is from the Fabrics-store, they have an amazing linen selection (they sent me this fabric to make a tutorial of the Carme blouse and I had just enough left for the dress).

Here you can see the loose shape gathered at the waist by the belt and the other details I changed on the original Carme blouse pattern: I shortened the sleeves, added a breast pocket, lengthened the placket, added belt loops and lengthened the length of the pattern. These are very easy changes. Let’s see them on a diagram in case you want to make a Carme dress:

In red are the original pattern pieces and in blue the new ones, in black the pieces and marks that you don’t need to change:

You can keep the pleated yoke if you wish but I wanted a simpler look so I joined the yoke (4) and the front (1) together and drew the new bodice front. I lengthen it by about 30 cm on the side (careful, the hem is curved).
I lengthened the back bodice by 30 cm as well (this measurement will depend on your height of course, I’m small so I don’t need to add a lot but you might want to add more or less length) and I made a more pronounced and longer curve at the back (I think the back is about 8 cm longer than the front).
I lengthened the front placket (5), it’s about 40 cm now.
You can use the same collar pieces (6).
I shortened the sleeves (3) right on the “shorten or lengthen here” mark and raised the new square mark about 12 cm under the top of the sleeve head. I used the same sleeve tab pieces (7).
I added 4 belt loops at waist level (2 on the front and 2 on the back) to wear a belt and give some shape to the dress. They are made of self fabric bias strips. These could also be place at hips level for a different look.
I added a breast pocket with flap. I made a box pleat pocket for an utilitarian look.
The only thing you would have to be careful about is the hip measurements: be sure to add enough room for your hips as the original pattern hits just above them. With following the lines and opening them just a little bit, my dress is very confortable and loose, but if you are pear shaped, that’s something I’d keep in mind when drawing the new pattern lines.

That’s it! Quite easy, no? I hope some of you will be tempted by this Safari Carme variation and if you have any question, feel free to contact me.

22 June, 2014 37 comments

Blog My makes Sewing projects

Summer Shorts: Pattern Runway Scalloped Hem Shorts in Linen

by Pauline Alice 27 May, 2014

written by Pauline Alice

Summer is here and I am in need of cute yet confortable clothes! I think that I can live an entire summer out of dresses but sometimes I feel more like wearing pants, shorts or even overalls… but still feel dressed up and cute.

And here comes the Scalloped Hem Shorts pattern by Pattern Runway, perfect for these summer days when you need to look smart but cool at the same time. I love the hem (of course!), the classic look of the slash and welt pockets, the front seam… Very sassy! It could easily go from a day at the beach to a meeting in the city and finish to a party or drinks on the evening.

Of course, in order to wear them all day long, you might want to stay away from linen! What can I say? I had this waxed linen for about a year and I love its leathery look, I think it adds a nice touch to the pattern but it wrinkles like crazy. I was seated for 15 minutes before taking the pictures and the front looks aweful (I saw that only after taking the pictures ;).

The sizing of the pattern is good but I found it a little big. According to the measurements, I cut a size XS (and didn’t make a muslin, silly me) but when I tried it on, it was large both at the hips and at the waist (it’s supposed to sit at the natural waist). I remember reading reviews saying the same. I stitched 1,5 cm seam allowances all over instead of the 1 cm included in the pattern. But I think I’ll just cut the XXS size next time as it’s still a little big (it’s the first time I’ve entered into such a small size haha). I would also make them a little bit shorter, but that’s a personal preference. But these are such easy changes that I can only say the best about this pattern (and it’s really my fault as I could have avoided that by making a muslin).

The instructions are clear (the welt pocket lining could be easier, if you have never made one, take your time and check their online tutorial). I made false welt pockets as I didn’t want to add bulk to the back and I knew I wouldn’t use these pockets anyway.

What about you, do you have a favourite shorts pattern?

27 May, 2014 11 comments