Tag:

jacket pattern

NEW PATTERNS: RUSSAFA & RUSSAFA MINI

by Pauline Alice 23 May, 2023

written by Pauline Alice

Today, not 1 but 2 patterns are coming out! I started working on the Russafa jacket last summer and very quickly the idea came to me to make a mini version for my children. When the mini collection came out, I was asked a lot for children’s sizes in addition to the baby ones.

The Russafa jacket is available in an adult version from size XS to XXL (as with Serra and Maritims, it is also suitable for men) and in a child version from size 2 to 12 years old. With its short and wide shape, it is inspired by the denim jackets of the 50s (I am thinking of the Levi’s type 1 and 2 jackets in particular). I kept the key detail of these models, the pleats on the front of the jacket, which could be unstitched to give more volume if necessary.

You will find all the details of a denim jacket in Russafa: the flat felled seams (which can just as well be changed to faux flat felled seams in the instructions), the lapel collar, the sleeve slits and its buttoned cuffs. But Russafa also has large pockets on the front, perfect for keeping your phone, keys, wallet… There is also a small patch pocket on the right side of the chest. Its back is embellished with pleats and a tightening buckle tab (only for the adult version).

For fabrics, I recommend choosing medium weight woven fabrics (non-stretch) like denim (obviously), but also gabardine, cotton canvas, corduroy . For the pockets lining, choose some pretty cotton, plain or printed, they will be visible inside the jacket. Special jeans buttons or normal sew-on buttons, the choice is yours. An alternative to rivets is also offered in the instruction booklet.

The Russafa and Russafa mini patterns are available in PDF format in the shop. A special pack is also offered with the two patterns included at a reduced price.

The PDF files include the instructions in French, Spanish and English, the pattern in A4 and A0 formats. You will find a layer option for each size (feel free to use it to gain readability by choosing only the size(s) you are interested in) and a seam lines option (for each size as well, if you wish to sew without included seam allowances).

I hope you like these patterns, I can’t wait to see the results!

Photos: Rosa Campos

Hair and makeup: Pablo peluqueros

Fabrics and haberdashery: personal stock, Prym rivets, Pontejos buckles

23 May, 2023 0 comments

FABRIC INSPIRATION FOR MARITIMS

by Pauline Alice 10 May, 2021

written by Pauline Alice

From the beginning, I’ve pictured the Albors trousers and the Maritims pullover as a set, made in the same fabric. So naturally, I chose some cotton canvas to sew the prototypes. But that’s not the only type of fabrics available for the Maritims pullover. I’ve made a selection of great ideas for the outer fabric (for the lining, poplin or flannel would be perfect).

ATHLEISURE

1/ Turquoise nylon Rpistop – Harts Fabric

2/ Camo Ripstop oilskin– Merchant & Mills

3/ Arctic softshell – Telas activas

Source images (from the left to the right and from the top to the bottom): Carhartt / Cos / La Redoute / Buckle / Tumbler

CLASSIC FISHERMAN SMOCK

1/ Moss twill hemp – Harts Fabric

2/ Burgundy water-repellent hemp– Stonemountain Fabrics

3/ Navy gabardine – Tissustory

Source images (from the left to the right and from the top to the bottom): Armor Lux / All’océan / Urban Outfitters / Vogue / Carrier Company

DENIM

1/ Blue denim – Les Trouvailles d’Amandine

2/ White recycled denim– Harts Fabric

3/ Chambray – Cousette

Source images (from the left to the right and from the top to the bottom): Asos / Caron Callahan / Pinterest / Galeries Lafayette / The Fashion Spot

The Maritims pullover pattern is available in sizes XS to XXL, in both print and PDF.

10 May, 2021 0 comments

Ayora Blog Pauline alice patterns

ZOOM IN: AYORA

by Pauline Alice 10 October, 2019

written by Pauline Alice

Another jacket pattern! Sorry not sorry ? I will never have enough jackets and coats patterns… But this time, let’s forget structure and tailoring and focus on something a lot more relaxed.

AYORA

Instead of a strictly outerwear jacket, Ayora was designed as an « interior » jacket, almost like a cardigan. It’s easy to put on over a tee-shirt as soon as the temperatures drop, pack anywhere or just wrap around yourself warmly at home with a good book. The new collection is built around the « cocooning » theme and that describes perfectly Ayora: a quilted jacket bringing warmth and comfort.

The Ayora jacket is short and boxy and has long sleeves. You’ll find two big (really big!) pockets on the front and a small one inside. And the best? It’s reversible! We’ve taken extra care of the finishing techniques: bias binding and facings for a seamless look.

You will learn how to quilt two fabrics together with batting. Nothing difficult: just a good preparation and some patience for a great and soft result. In the instruction booklet, we have included two quilted patterns but you’re more than welcome to invent yours (or choose a fabric already quilted).

The Ayora jacket’s classic cut is perfect to let the fabric shine. How about a quilted pattern with contrasting topstitching? You could also use a printed fabric for the inside (that could be worn out as well as the jacket is reversible) or an original quilted pattern to make a one-of-a-kind jacket.

– You can find the AYORA jacket in printed copy or PDF (A4 print-at-home and A0 copy shop included) in sizes 34-52 in the shop! –

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Fabric: tencel twill col. Moss and viscose kaki – Tissustory

Natural cotton – Ikea

Cotton and Soja-Mix batting – Rascol

10 October, 2019 1 comment

Blog Pauline alice patterns Serra

ZOOM IN: THE SERRA JACKET

by Pauline Alice 25 February, 2019

written by Pauline Alice

Serra is an unstructured, unisex jacket with raglan sleeves, fully lined. There are 3 views for 3 different styles and uses: a parka jacket for View A, an athletic blouson for View B and a trench coat for View C.

VIEW A

View A of the Serra jacket is a mid-thigh length jacket inspired by the Pauline Alice Mini coat and the traditionnal breton raincoat. It has been designed for the rainy and stormy days along the breton coast (my homeland). You’ll find all the details of the original Mini coat: a parka/raincoat shape with storm shield and double pockets with flaps and snap buttons. We’ve also added a stand-up collar, a drawstring casing for those of you who want some waist definition and a detachable hood. The jacket hits below your bottom and is closed by a zipper and two button plackets with snap buttons.

You can choose a lot of different fabrics for your Serra jacket. To keep the raincoat vibe, choose a coated or wax coton gabardine, perfect to protect you from the wind, in light to medium weight (between 150 and 300 gr/m2).

Fabric : Trench dry oilskin – beige – Merchant & Mills.

VIEW B

View B is a short blouson jacket with hood. With athletic aesthetic, it’s great for outdoor adventures like a walk in the mountains. It has a front zipper from the hood to the elasticized hem. We have added zipped pockets: one on the bust and two on the front, large enough to hold all your everyday belongings (keys, money and phone).

View B would look great with a technical fabric such as cordura® light or cordura® ripstop, or any light to medium weight fabric (between 135 et 200 g/m2). Here, we have used a lightweigh coton canvas.

Fabric : Imper coton toilé – uni, forêt (this color is out of stock)- Stragier.

VIEW C

For View C, we’ve been thinking about the iconic trench coat. Designed to be worn everyday in the city (or on the countryside if you prefer!), it’s a knee-length jacket with storm shield and gun flap, two big buttoned welt pockets and an interior pocket. Its classic collar has buttons on the collar stand to attach the removable hood. You’ll also find button bands on the sleeves. The jacket is closed by five front buttons and can be belted.

Fabric wise, there’s so much to choose from! How about a classic gabardine, coated canvas or woolen?

Fabric : houndstooth wool (out of stock – similar) – écru, brun, kaki – The Sweet Mercerie.

We have designed the three Serra versions to offer a versatile jacket pattern, that you can adapt to your daily life and your personal style easily. All the details can be removed and added to all three versions so you can create an unique jacket. We have prepared a post on the subject to explain how to adapt the pattern.

– You can find the SERRA jacket pattern in printed copy or PDF (A4 print-at-home and A0 copyshop included) in the shop. –

25 February, 2019 5 comments

Blog Pauline alice patterns Tello

Zoom in: the Tello jacket

by Pauline Alice 29 March, 2017

written by Pauline Alice

Let me introduce you the Tello jacket today.

Tello is a classic utility jacket, unlined and with many pockets (by now, you should know I’m a pocket addict!). It features topstitching, a Balmacaan collar, and one-piece sleeves shaped with an elbow dart. The front closure can be made of buttons or snaps.

As for the various pockets, I bet you’ll find what you need: large hip U-line pockets, a small chest pocket and a vertical zipped chest pocket with lined interior. So practical!

I had a similar jacket when I was younger and I love how it was so versatile. That’s why I wanted to design a jacket that goes with almost everything in your wardrobe: a cute dress, a pair of jeans, shorts… Typically, it’s the jacket you grab before going out on a summer evening without thinking!

The Tello jacket construction is quite easy, I would recommend it as an intermediary level pattern and it would be great as a first jacket with interesting details. It’s unlined (you can either serge the seam allowances or bound them with a pretty bias binding tape matching the lined pocket), the one-piece sleeve is easy to insert and the collar is only one piece. Use snaps instead of buttons to make even simpler.

You can use a great variety of fabrics to make the Tello jacket: gabardine, twill, denim, lightweight wool or linen like the presentation version. You also need some lining for the pocket (cotton would be perfect) and bias binding if you choose to finish your seams this way. No interfacing is required, this is a rather informal jacket, but if you think your fabric would need it, feel free to interface the collar and facings.

Easy to make and easy to wear, what more can you ask the Tello jacket?

You can find the Tello jacket pattern in the shop in both PRINTED and PDF versions.

29 March, 2017 3 comments

Blog Pauline alice patterns Saler

Zoom on: the Saler jacket pattern

by Pauline Alice 25 May, 2016

written by Pauline Alice

You might know it by now but jackets and coats are my favourite garments to sew. I love the tailoring aspect of sewing, the structure of these pieces, the time and patient hand-sewing involved in such projects.
With the Saler jacket, I wanted to offer a classic pattern with tailored details and timeless style. The pattern includes illustrated instructions and all the pattern pieces you’ll need: interfacing and lining have their own pieces. It’s a time consuming pattern and more recommended for an advanced seamstress but it’s also the perfect challenge for an intermediate one, thanks to the detailled instructions.

The Saler jacket features shoulder princess seams at the front and back for an easy fit, two pieces sleeves with a buttoned vent, double welt pockets with flap, it is partially interfaced following the modern method of fusing interfacing and entirely lined by machine (bagging technic).

The most important steps for making the Saler jacket is to take to amount of time necessary to make a muslin and mark your fabric.

Marking the fabric can be tedious and we often want to start sewing as soon as possible but believe me, when you’re done marking all your jacket pieces, putting them together is going to be so much easier.

As for recommended fabric, you can choose between a classic wool or tweed, linen or crepe for a summery version, gabardine or denim for a more casual look… Just make sure your fabric has a little bit of drape, it’s going to be easier (I don’t recommend using gabardine if you’re not already accustomed with jacket-making as the stiffness of the fabric is going to make it more difficult – I had to set my sleeves 3 times to get an ok sleeve cap, and it’s still not perfect while the sleeves of the jackets I made in light tweed went in beautifully). Another important detail is the choice of interfacing: I like to use weft interfacing as when fused, it follows nicely the drape of the fabric.

Gabardine “driftwood” and “blanc”: les Trouvailles d’Amandine
Wool: France Duval Stalla
I’m finishing the “zoom on” series with this Jacket, I hope you’ll like it!

25 May, 2016 4 comments