darts
Camí Sew-Along: Sewing the Bodice
Today we’ll do some actual sewing, so grab your bodice pattern pieces and your fabric!
BODICE FRONT DARTS
1.Take your bodice front piece and make sure you have transfered all the markings (dart, sleeve marking, zipper marking).
2.Fold the dart in the center with right sides together, matching up the dart legs. Pin into place.
3.Stitch the dart: backstitch at the beginning but not at the end. When you arrive at the dart tip, tie off the threads.
4.Press the dart toward the center.
5.Repeat steps 1 to 4 for the other bodice front piece.
BODICE BACK DARTS
1.Take your bodice back piece and report all markings (darts, waist and collar center, sleeve and zipper markings).
2.Stitch the darts like for the bodice front and press them toward center.
SIDE SEAMS
1.With right sides together, pin the bodice front’s right side to the bodice back. Stitch, press the seam open and finish seam allowances as you prefer (serger, zig-zag, binding, french seams).
2.I decided to make a turned-and-stitched finish.
3.On the left side, stitch from the armhole to the zipper marking. Depending on how you finish you seam allowances, you might want to finish them before stitching the side seam (serger, zig-zag).
SHOULDER SEAMS
1.Pin the shoulder seams together with right sides together and stitch. Press the seams allowances open and finish them.
BUTTON PLACKET
1.Take the bodice front. Fold and press the fabric margin (1 cm, 3/8″) along the interfacing, following the markings, like on the picture.
2.Fold again follwing the markings (3 cm, 1,2″) and press.
3.On the right side, stitch very close the fold. Repeat on the other bodice side.
That’s all for today! You can now try your bodice, it’s open on the front and at the bottom of the left side. Tomorrow we’ll see how to add a little breast pocket. So cute and practical!