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babydoll

Making the Malvarosa Dress for Petites Tutorial by SBCC

by Pauline Alice 12 May, 2014

written by Pauline Alice

I’m so happy to present this tutorial by Betsy from SBCC patterns (Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick, love the name!), specialized in sewing patterns for petite women.

And you know what? I am a petite woman! 5 ft 1 (1, 53 m).

Betsy has made the Malvarosa dress for herself and proposed to share some tips on Petites alterations.

So please welcome Betsy who’s going to show you how to alter very easily the Malvarosa pattern so you can rock the low waist trend this summer! See for yourself her beautiful version, very Gatsby and Roaring 20’s fabulosity if you ask me!

Hi, I’m Betsy from Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Patterns. I am happy to meet and work with Pauline Alice. Sewing Indie month has brought us together and I am thrilled to have found her patterns that are classic, feminine- oh yeah, and a breeze to sew together!

I make petite patterns, for women 5’4” and under. Believe it or not, 70% of the female population is actually petite in torso length, leg length, or both. It is easy to make petite pattern alterations and Pauline Alice was a good sport about letting me make a petite version of her Malvarosa Dress.

I am always drawn to drop-waist dresses. Maybe I was a tall, 1920’s Flapper in a previous life, sporting the chic elongated looks that hit gracefully at the hip level. Well, in this lifetime, Flapper I am not with my 5 ft 1″/1.55m petite stature. Waistlines that hit below the natural waist tend to be hard to pull of for petites- it takes the right proportions.

The Malvarosa dress had me hook, line, and sinker. I knew I had to make it, as it is a silhouette that I gravitate towards lately and also an easy style to modify for petites. With the right heels I could pull it off as is, but I like my flats and needed to make some petite modifications.

I always start out with a muslin to get a baseline idea of what changes I may need to make. I made up the first version as per Pauline’s original dress. It turned out really cute, but a touch too long for me. So then I made the second muslin with the following alterations:

I shortened the bottom skirt 3″/7,5cm. Since drop waists elongate the torso my philosophy is that it is best for petites to keep the hem above the knee so short legs don’t look shorter.
(I went a little too short on the 2nd muslin and it was a full on show when I bent over- whoa!). Revised the skirt again and only reduced 2”/5cm in length which was a bit more modest.
Then I reduced the bodice length 1″/2.5 cm at the armhole, both front and back to bring the armhole up.
I shortened the midsection of the bodice 1/2″/1,25 cm.
The sleeves were a touch too long for my narrow shoulders so I shaved off 1/4″/3mm.
Now this one is just personal preference, but I raised the neckline 1/4″/3mm in the front and reduced the total neck width 1/2″/1,25cm. For me this kept the proportions of the Malvarosa same as the original, but just a bit smaller.

Alright, enough with the muslins! I cut into a printed silk that I picked up in Paris and have been saving for the perfect project, such as this. The Malvarosa dress is a great style for trim and embellishment, so I did a little beading and lace at the neck and lace at the waist seam. Voila! I have a new summer dress that I can’t wait to wear!

Regardless of your height this is an easy to sew summer dress that you can whip up in no time! If you are a taller gal and worried that the regular length will be short, you can use the same modifications as illustrated, just in reverse by adding instead of reducing.

………

Thanks so much for this tutorial Betsy! You look absolutely gorgeous in your Malvarosa dress (definitely going for that flapper style!) and you’ve given us great advices on how to alter a simple pattern for Petites.

Be sure to check Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick patterns for amazing patterns especially for petite frames (I have my eyes on the Manhattan trousers, they look so smart!)

12 May, 2014 15 comments

Blog Extras Ninot Patrons pauline alice Tutoriels et techniques variations

Variation: Ninot Coat

by Pauline Alice 18 December, 2013

written by Pauline Alice

I wanted to experiment with the new Ninot Jacket Pattern while designing it and as a swing coat was on my Fall/Winter sewing plan, I made a coat out of the jacket pattern!

It was super easy: just lengthen the jacket side seams to the desired length!

J’ai réalisé le manteau dans un piqué de coton bleu vif et je l’ai doublé avec une doublure vert pomme. Les boutons sont super jolis, on dirait des bijoux!

Maintenant vous savez que la veste peut se transformer sans problème en un joli manteau, ce message est dirigé aux frileuses 😉

The jewel button, handmade buttonhole and a detail of the textured piqué fabric.

18 December, 2013 44 comments

Blog Malvarosa Pauline alice patterns Sewing ideas and inspiration Sewing projects

Malvarosas…

by Pauline Alice 25 November, 2013

written by Pauline Alice

I just wanted to share some Malvarosa dresses today.
Isa made it in knits! She used a beautiful grey/blue Ponte Roma knit with a floral border (great placement on the skirt!).

Knits are not in the recommended fabrics list but Ponte Roma is a nice option as it has the stability of a woven fabric. And this is a great fabric for winter, warm and cozy. Just remember to cut 1 size smaller than yours to allow for the stretch.

As for Sonia, she used a beautiful cotton from Telaria. She also made the 3/4 sleeves, well, winter is coming, but didn’t used the facings, prefering to add lining to the dress.
If you want to do that, that’s very easy. Just cut the same pattern pieces in your lining fabric omitting the pockets in the front bodice. How easy was that? There you go, ready for winter…

¡Pero no es invierno en todas las partes! En la tierra de Kirsty, Australia, es el verano el que se está acercando. Ha hecho una versión con una tela Liberty monísima con casitas! Las mangas cortas hacen que el vestido esté perfecto para unas Navidades veraniegas (¡Oh que raro estas palabras juntas!). Un vestido perfecto para las próximas fiestas…

25 November, 2013 25 comments

Blog idées et inspiration Malvarosa Patrons pauline alice projets

Behind the Malvarosa Pattern: The Inspiration

by Pauline Alice 18 November, 2013

written by Pauline Alice

You might have recognized the Malvarosa dress pattern from my handmade collection and from the pink babydoll post. This dress has always been one of favourite for its easy style and comfort, the flirty skirt and the hidden pockets of course.

So making it into a pattern has always been an option for me.

But I wanted to incorporate some elements from one of my all time favourite designers, famous for his babydoll dresses: Cristóbal Balenciaga.

The main characteristics of Balenciaga’s babydoll dresses were: the accentuated A-line and the fully gathered skirt (I didn’t go that puffy!), low waistline (around the hips) and drop shoulders (that’s a design I love). These models are from the 1950’s and 1960’s.

The lace version is stunning, wouldn’t that look amazing for the holidays?

You can find the pattern HERE!

18 November, 2013 17 comments

Blog Malvarosa Patrons pauline alice

Malvarosa Dress Pattern!

by Pauline Alice 14 November, 2013

written by Pauline Alice

Here it is, the new pattern: the Malvarosa dress!

After a fitted 50’s inspired dress, I wanted to recreate the style of another decade I love: the 60’s.

This babydoll dress is all about volume, fun and comfort without compromise on great style.

Version A has small drop shoulders, perfect for summer or for parties!

The pattern features a low waistline with A-line bodice, a gathered skirt with hidden pockets, bust darts and boat neckline.

For a dramatic result, use a fabric with a lot of body like this black and white cotton canvas (with Eiffel Tower, french poodles and the typical french policeman on bike, how cute!) or a taffeta or brocade, so that the dress will stay open, away from your body.

Version B has elbow length sleeves attached to the drop shoulders. I made this version with a beautiful cotton fabric from designer Anna Maria Horner from Telaria online shop.

One of my favourite features on this pattern are the pockets hidden in the skirts gathers. You don’t even notice they are here until you put your hands in them. And I don’t know about you, but pockets are definitely a must for me!

As you can see, the pattern is quite simple, it’s recommended for a beginner seamstress. There is no fastener of any kind (no zipper or buttons), just pull through like a t-shirt.

The shape is loose so fitting is not too complicated either.

The Malvarosa pattern is a great project for a beginner seamstress who is looking for an dress easy to accessorize and make in a lot of different fabrics (think heavy brocade for a party, chambray or cotton for summer, wool for winter, or even lace for a wedding…).

Feel like making a Malvarosa dress? Buy the pattern here!

14 November, 2013 33 comments

Blog My makes Sewing projects

Pink Babydoll

by Pauline Alice 22 February, 2013

written by Pauline Alice

How amazing it is to be able to dress like that in February! This is one of the many reasons I love Valencia…

I made this dress before Christmas and it has been one of my favourites ever since. I am already sewing another one in blue with short sleeves.

I lve the flirty flounce, the hidden pockets, the button placket… And the pink fabric of course! I mean, I wear so much pink it’s actually hard to believe my favourite colour is blue (I swear it is!).

You might have recognised the fabric, it’s the same one I used for the petal coat. I have tried wearing the two garments together and I have to admit that even if such sweetness is not for the faint of heart, I love the matchiness of the outfit.

Lately, I have been experiencing and learning about patternmaking and my last projects have almost all been self-designed. This one follows the same rule.

It was fun to incorporate all my favourite elements in one dress and make it work as a whole. The pockets were particularly exciting to design.

The overall loose shape allowed me to have a placket opening at the back instead of the regular zipper one, but I don’t even need to open the buttons to pass the dress over my head.

I hope you like it as much as I do and hopefully I will be able to show you the spring version soon.

22 February, 2013 44 comments