Last summer, we released the Vera shirt pattern: a loose shirt with an asymmetrical hem. We’ve seen amazing versions on social media, and some of them modified as a dress. We loved the idea and decided to make a casual shirt dress for the summer. We have added a large pleat in the back, two big pleated pockets on the hips, longer sleeves and ties at the waist so it can be ajusted.
Fabrics: Blue and red stripes cotton poplin Lanterne & Céleste. / Cahier d’Écolier gauze. / images: Coralie marabelle. / Le Mont Saint Michel.
We wanted to work with various fabrics to give it a patchwork vibe and play with the grafic look of the shirt. We selected Amandine Cha’s organic fabrics (mainly cotton poplin and gauze) as they look and feel great.
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HACK
1/ Lengthen the front and back pieces. Trace an horizontal line about 20 cm below the armscye on the front and back pieces. Cut along the line. On a piece of paper, place the top and bottom pieces 30 to 35 cm apart (make sure the centers match). Tape the pieces to the paper and draw a line to meet the top and bottom at the sides and centers.
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2/ Lengthen the front facing to same way.
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3/ Once the front, back and front facing pieces are lengthened, we will widen the back piece with an inverted pleat. Place the back piece on paper and trace a line parallel to the center back 2 to 4 cm away. Trace around the new back piece.
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4/ Lengthen the sleeve. Trace a cutting line 10 cm above the hem. Cut and place on paper 10 cm apart. Tape and draw the new sides from the armscye to the hem.
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5/ Draw the pleated pocket.
- Pocket : on a piece of paper, trace a rectangle 22 cm wide and 16 cm high. Trace a vertical line at the center, this will be the center of the inverted pleat. On each side of the line, trace a fold line 2 cm away. Add 1,5 cm seam allowances around the pocket piece. You’ll need to cut 2.
- Pocket facing : Trace a rectangle 18 cm wide and 8 cm high. Add 1,5 cm seam allowances around the facing. Cut 2.
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6/ Make the waist ties. Trace a rectanle 8 cm high 1 m wide (if you want longer or shorter ties, feel free to change the length). Add 1,5 cm seam allowances around the ties. Cut 2.
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7/ Place the pockets and ties placements on the front pieces as indicated.
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CONSTRUCTION
BACK
- Form the inverted pleat on the back neckline. Here’s a great post (in french) about that:
> Coudre des plis: plis plats, plits creux, plis ronds
POCKETS
- Form the inverted pleat of the pocket.
- With right sides together, stitch the pocket facing to the top edge of the pocket with 1,5 cm seam allowances. Press the seam allowances towards the facing and understitch.
- Fold the top edge of the facing 1,5 cm wrong sides together. Press. With right sides together, fold the facing in two, stitch around the pocket, over the top fold. Trim the corners.
- Turn the pocket right sides out. Fold the pockets seam allowances towards the wrong side, using the stitching as a guide. Edgestitch the facing.
- Pin the pockets on the front pieces. Topstitch around the pockets.
TIES
- With right sides together, fold the tie in two lengthwise. Stitch 1,5 cm from the edge, leaving one end open. Turn right side out and press. Baste the ties to the front pieces.
HEM
- Finish the hem with bias binding (or you could use the original facing if you prefer, just remember to add the extra width from the back pleat).
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